Chemical Exfoliants and Retinoids: Why You Should Be Using Them

Trust me. I’ve tried so many skincare products and will be the first to admit that I’ve spent too much money on products that didn’t work for my skin. With thousands of (expensive) products and treatments out there, it can be overwhelming and intimidating to find what really works for you (while simultaneously not breaking your bank).

I guess the benefit of having tried so many different products, however, is that I have finally found a routine that works for me and have discovered my holy grail products. In my last post, I mentioned 1) my love for hyaluronic acid and 2) that I make sure all of the products I put on my face are non-comedogenic. In this post I want to touch on the two other things that have transformed my skin: chemical exfoliants and retinoids.

Chemical exfoliators sound really intimidating. Just the thought of putting chemicals on your face can be quite unsettling. But actually, chemical exfoliators are more gentle than physical exfoliators. Exfoliation should be an integral part of every skincare routine because it removes dead skin cells and promotes skin cell turnover, keeping your pores clean and breakout free! It also enhances collagen production through increased blood flow.

There are two kinds of chemical exfoliants: AHAs and BHAs. AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), such as glycolic acid, are water “loving” and water-soluble acids. AHAs are best used on dry skin because they exfoliate your skin without stripping it of its moisture. BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), such as salicylic acid, penetrate deeper into the skin than AHAs. BHAs love oil and are therefore best for oily, acne-prone skin. Given my oily/dry combination skin, I use both AHAs and BHAs, just on different parts of my face!

Now, for the bit of science you didn’t think you would get today! As we get older, our cells in the outermost layer of the skin (the epidermis) become thinner. Things like sun exposure cause the collagen in our skin to break down more rapidly, damaging the collagen fibers. When the skin tries to rebuild itself, it often does so incorrectly, causing wrinkles. Enter retinoids.

Retinoids cause skin cells on the surface to replenish more frequently. This rapid turnover allows for new cell growth which inhibits the breakdown of collagen, unclogs pores, and thickens the deeper layer of skin where wrinkles originate. This makes retinoids the ultimate skincare product that really covers all of the bases: improving skin texture and reducing signs of aging (hello fine lines and wrinkles!).

When you first start to use a retinol, you may experience more dry skin than usual. This is completely normal, and is why it is important to start using retinol every three to four days and slowly increasing frequency. Having used it for a few years now, I use a retinol every other night. I use an over the counter (no prescription needed) retinol called Differin.

Further, using a retinol makes your skin more sensitive to sun exposure so be sure to wear an SPF. Like I said before, UV rays from sunlight are damaging to our skin cells. Regardless of if it is a cloudy day, you must wear an SPF!

Here are the products mentioned in this post:

• AHA Chemical Exfoliator
• BHA Chemical Exfoliator
• Retinol